Side by side Aman Kyoto vs Bürgenstock Resort

Aman Kyoto is a 26-room retreat carved into 3.2 hectares of cypress and cedar forest at the foot of Hidari Daimonji, and what you're paying for (rates run roughly 360,000 to 650,000+ yen a night depending on season) is the forest, not the city. The Kerry Hill-designed rooms run 646 square feet with private Hinoki baths, sliding doors that unfold into extra space, and tatami floors that guests keep calling the best-finished wood and tatami they've seen outside a private Japanese home. The onsen, indoor and outdoor, is the reason more than one guest calls this the real onsen hotel in the Aman portfolio, and Taka-An's set menu (six ways with one seasonal ingredient, snow crab when it's in season) gets guests going back a second night.

Two things get priced in honestly. There's no pool and no gym, which a hotel at this rate would normally include as a given, and the wellness sits entirely on the traditional onsen experience instead. And the location is a genuine split: it's 13 to 18 minutes by house car from central Kyoto, which some guests find is exactly the point (a real pull from the crowds around Kinkaku-ji) and others find makes it a poor base if you actually want to spend your days out seeing the city. A few guests also flag that the main dining room is small and breakfast feels modest set against the nightly rate, and one flat-out said the delivery felt closer to a much cheaper property at these prices.

Book it if you want a few days of quiet at the start or end of a Japan trip, ideally paired with something central like the Ritz-Carlton or Park Hyatt for the days you actually want to be in Kyoto proper. If mobility is a concern, know the paths through the grounds are uneven rock, not flat. For the forest, the baths, and Taka-An, nothing else in the city gets close.

You go to Bürgenstock for the arrival as much as the stay: train to Lucerne, boat across the lake, funicular up the cliff, and then a spa that people who've been to a dozen European resorts still call one of the best they've used. The Alpine Spa's infinity pool floating above the lake is the reason most people book, and the saunas, salt float room and sound-bath sessions back it up. Rooms in the Contemporary wing lean smaller than the rate implies, but the suspended whirlpool bathtub by the picture window is worth the trade for most people who've stayed in one.

The main event is not the problem; everything around it is. One couple's tenth-anniversary stay was cancelled outright when the property cleared out for a diplomatic summit that then fell through, and they were the ones who had to insist on a like-for-like replacement rather than being quietly downgraded. Breakfast service has slipped for more than one guest — coffee and eggs that never arrived, an hour into the meal — and the spa now cuts off the moment you check out, which several returning guests didn't find out until they were already at the door. Food prices bite too: a wagyu burger for 54 francs, a plated mango for 28. None of that erases what the spa and the setting deliver, but it means the polish isn't as consistent as the marketing suggests, and the room itself rarely matches the drama of the view.

Book it for the spa and the setting above everything else. Couples on a wellness trip, or anyone chasing that lake-floating pool, will get exactly what they came for. Families do fine here too, with a kids' club that gets singled out as genuinely good. People who want a smaller, more personal, owner-run feel tend to gravitate toward Park Hotel Vitznau down the shore instead, but for the view and the spa on this scale, nothing else on the lake competes.