One&Only Lord Howe Island vs One&Only Palmilla

Capella Lodge sits on a bluff with Mt Gower and Mt Lidgbird filling the view and nothing else in the frame: no other building on the island sits south of it, so the outlook from the dining deck and most rooms is just mountain, ocean and sky. That alone justifies the trip for people who've been chasing this exact kind of view. Rates include breakfast, dinner, canapes and a picnic lunch delivered to whichever beach you pick, and the nightly-changing dinner menu with wine pairings is the thing repeat guests mention booking a return trip around.

The service is the strongest thread running through nearly every stay: managers Bridie and Ryan get credited by name for running a team that greets guests by first name and, in at least one case, turned a room twice a day unasked. That's not universal. One couple who'd just done seven nights at Milky Way found the Capella dinner service and food underwhelming for the price, a useful reminder that this is a nine-room lodge, not a resort, so an off night in the kitchen or a quiet service block is more noticeable than it would be somewhere bigger. The pool is small (one of only two or three on all of Lord Howe Island) and the e-bike fleet runs short at busy times.

Book it for the mountains-into-ocean view from the Lidgbird Pavilion and the included dinners, not for a spa or a big pool scene, and go in knowing a nine-room property has good nights and occasional flat ones. For a couple wanting one very good week on an island with no phone reception and barely any other accommodation worth naming, nothing else on Lord Howe comes close.

People come back to One&Only Palmilla year after year for one reason above all: the staff remember them. Guests describe assigned pool loungers held for the whole stay, hosts who fix a problem before it's raised, a return rate one longtime guest pegged near 50%. Add one of the only swimmable beaches in the corridor and hacienda grounds that read as genuinely decades-old rather than landscaped last season, and you understand why people who also love Las Ventanas or Four Seasons Cabo del Sol still concede Palmilla's staff are a step above.

That loyalty is being asked to cover real gaps. Food and drink pricing here is aggressive even by Cabo standards — a $30 margarita and a $35 guacamole show up as complaints across several years of stays, not a single bad night. The rooms split people: some find real character in the older suites, others (usually mid-comparison with the newer Four Seasons down the road) call the bathrooms dated. Recent reports also flag spa scheduling errors and slow follow-through from management when something goes wrong, plus an odd, specific gap — no water refill station or cooler anywhere on property, so hydration outside meal service means chasing down housekeeping.

Book this for the grounds and the people, not the room category or the wine list. If old-world hacienda charm and a beach you can actually swim past the shoreline on matter more than a renovated bathroom, it beats the newer competition nearby, and even guests who prefer Las Ventanas' room stock still admit Palmilla's service culture is the one to beat. Go in with a bar tab budget already decided, and book it for the staff and that beach.