Side by side Amandari vs Passalacqua

Amandari opened in 1989 as the second Aman ever built, and it still runs on that idea: a cluster of thatched-roof villas built to look like a Balinese village, stacked into a ravine above the Ayung River outside Ubud. What you're paying for isn't the newest pool or the biggest spa menu. It's a staff who learn your breakfast order by day one and then just handle things: one guest said Whatsapping the front desk for a barber or a TV fix got an instant reply, no waiting on hold, no repeating yourself. Housekeeping resets your villa while you're at the pool for an hour, down to a fresh towel and a bookmark on whatever you left open.

The building is honest about its age, and that cuts both ways. Several recent guests loved the traditional bones and called it timeless rather than dated. One 2024 review reported a dead cockroach and a toilet that splashes back on flush, alongside praise for the food and the infinity pool view: both things can be true in a 36-year-old property. The single restaurant covers breakfast, lunch and dinner, and a few longer-stay guests got tired of one menu, though the kitchen's Sop Buntut and wagyu get called out by name. Villa plunge pools aren't heated either, so they're a warm-day dip, not a night swim. The service is the reason to book, and it's specific: a five-year-old got a complimentary tennis partner and an afternoon dance class she refused to miss, and a private rice-field guide built the walk around her nap schedule.

This suits people who want an intimate, walkable property where you can reach breakfast or the spa in two minutes, not a resort you need a buggy to cross. If you want a bigger room, a river view, and more on-site variety, Mandapa next door gets recommended for exactly that, though its service consistently rates behind Amandari's. Book Amandari for the staff who anticipate what you need before you ask, and the sense that Ubud in 1989 is still standing.

Passalacqua costs somewhere north of €2,500 a night for a standard room and what arrives, for most people, is the best version of an Italian villa stay money can currently buy on this lake. The 1787 house has 24 rooms, which means the staff-to-guest ratio shows: Michaela and Alice walk guests through the terraced gardens unasked, and one honeymooning couple got a handwritten vegetarian tasting menu after mentioning dietary preferences by the pool that same afternoon. The grounds, the in-house florist, the underground spa cave carved into the hillside: this is the rare hotel where the photos undersell it.

The restaurant is the real soft spot, and it's worth pricing in before you book. Multiple guests report a kitchen that can't keep pace with the setting: wrong courses, a soufflé that wasn't one, and in one case a salad arriving with flies in it on a night the main restaurant turned away its own hotel guests for a private event. The gym is small and several reviews call it tired for the rate. None of this touches breakfast, which is consistently the best meal of the stay, or the bar, where the mixologist Andrea gets singled out by name for a tasting class worth booking.

Book it for the villa rooms over the Casa al Lago cottages, which sit a steep, long walk from the main house. Couples and honeymooners get the most out of it; families with older kids might prefer the livelier Grand Hotel Tremezzo down the lake, which has more going on after dark. For a quiet few days where the hotel itself is the destination, nothing on Como touches it.