The Emory vs The Connaught

The Emory is Maybourne's one real departure from the Claridge's/Connaught script: Richard Rogers' glass box across from Hyde Park, 61 keys, all-suite, barely a lobby, sharing a spa and rooftop with The Berkeley next door. Rooms opened around £1,600 a night and the entry Courtyard Studios still sit near that, which buys floor-to-ceiling glass, a stocked-free minibar, a Cédric Grolet pastry on arrival, and Surrenne downstairs. The Tracy Anderson studio and the snow shower come up before anything else, and one guest who stayed five months called it the best spa experience of a very long trip.

This isn't a hotel that performs the same on night one as it does on night five. That same long-stay guest tracked their own housekeeping scores and found mornings ran measurably better than afternoons, and said outright that a one or two-night stay is too small a sample to judge the place fairly. Shorter stays back that up: a slow check-in, no manager on hand when something goes wrong, a "suite" facing a neighbouring building with the curtains stuck shut for lack of any view. The website oversells too: the welcome champagne, the unpacking service, the non-alcoholic beer add-on don't always show up as promised, which reads less like malice than a property still smoothing its edges two years in. A few guests have also flagged there's no concierge on-site for basics like booking a car, so you're sent next door to The Berkeley.

Book it for the design, the spa, and the quiet if you can give it three nights or more and shrug off an off moment; it isn't built for a single-night stopover. Give it three nights and the butlers, the glass, and Surrenne make the case themselves.

The Connaught costs what every Mayfair five-star costs now, and what you get for it is the martini trolley, three genuinely excellent bars, Helene Darroze upstairs, and a staff that tends to know your name by the second day. That last part isn't a stray compliment. It shows up constantly, from the doorman keeping a family's taxi orders straight at breakfast to a bar manager remembered by name for small touches. The Connaught Bar alone is worth crossing London for, trolley-side vermouth selection and all, even if you never book a room.

The rooms are where the argument gets more complicated. Some guests land in a newly redone junior suite with a four-poster bed and love it; others get an entry-level room they call small, dark, or in need of a refresh, and the renovation has clearly been rolling through floors unevenly. The lobby's heavy floral scent splits people cleanly — some find it part of the charm, others found it genuinely bothersome enough to book elsewhere. And there's a real, if occasional, crack in the service reputation: a guest turned away for carrying a takeaway coffee, another laughed at over a phone charger, a bar door slammed shut eight minutes past a confirmed closing time. None of that is the norm, but it's not nothing either.

Book it for the bar and the restaurants first, the rooms second — ask what's been renovated before you commit to a category. If bar seating matters to you, know the Connaught doesn't have any at the counter itself; solo drinkers who want to perch tend to end up at Claridge's or the Rosewood instead. For everyone else, this is still the Mayfair address people return to year after year for the martini alone.