Side by side Four Seasons Hotel George V, Paris vs Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul at Sultanahmet

The George V costs what a palace hotel in the eighth costs, and for that money most people who actually check in get exactly what they came for: a newly renovated room with a Dyson dryer and blackout shades good enough to fix your jet lag, flower arrangements that turn up in almost every account without being asked about, and a restaurant floor (Le Cinq, L'Orangerie, the bar) that people describe as a destination rather than something you wander into because you're already staying there. The renovated rooms are the headline right now: guests who'd stayed before the refit say the difference is real, not cosmetic.

The staff stories from actual guests are specific in a way that's hard to manufacture: a family with young jet-lagged kids got handed a spare room before they had to ask, a full breakfast room got solved by opening L'Orangerie instead of making people wait, a regular has a standing hairdresser she won't see anyone else. That's the level this hotel is operating at for people who are checked in. Where it gets complicated is anyone treating the George V as a drop-in for tea or a restaurant booking without a room key – there's a real thread of visitors, not just one, describing a cold or condescending welcome at the door, and a separate, messier story about a guest whose negative review of that experience got pulled from a review site after the hotel disputed it. Neither of those things describes what happens once you're actually a guest, but they're worth knowing before you book a table rather than a room.

If you're staying, book it for the location and the renovated rooms, and go into dinner at Le Cinq expecting it to earn its reputation rather than coast on it.

This is the old-town choice: a former prison turned 65-room courtyard hotel, a few minutes' walk from the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia, and the reason people keep coming back is the staff, not the building. One guest was called by name on day one. Another had a birthday cake and champagne in the room, and the pillowcases changed to read "Happy Birthday," without ever mentioning the date to anyone. A manager sat down for dinner in the courtyard and pulled up old photos on an iPad to walk a guest through the building's past as a political (not violent) prison, the original beams still carrying prisoner inscriptions.

Price that against what's missing. There's no pool and no spa on property — you shuttle or take the courtesy yacht to the Bosphorus sister hotel for either, on set departure times that a few guests found inconvenient. The all-day restaurant is small for a Four Seasons, and while the courtyard breakfast gets consistent praise (the simit with honey, the Turkish eggs), dinner and the bar draw more mixed marks — one long-stay guest called the food and cocktails solidly good but not great. Rooms vary too: some suites split the bed and bathroom across two floors via a staircase, a quirk of the building's prison-era layout that a few travelers found genuinely annoying rather than charming.

Book this one for a first Istanbul trip, when walking to every major sight matters more than a pool. The location and the service are the case, and neither slips. Travelers wanting a bigger resort feel with a proper spa tend to look at the Bosphorus waterfront hotels instead, but for old-town charm and staff who notice everything, nothing nearby competes.