Amanfayun vs Deplar Farm

What you're paying for at Amanfayun isn't the room. It's a reconstructed Longjing tea village strung along a stream beside Lingyin Temple, with monk-led chants at Yongfu at dawn and a footpath gate that lets you beat the tour buses. That's the whole case for the property. Travellers separated by years describe the same thing: the stream-lined pool against centuries-old stone, the tea gardens, the sense of arriving somewhere old rather than merely nice. One guest's grandparents got personal attention getting around the grounds; another's toddler had every staff member charmed within a day. The food backs it up too: the vegetarian restaurant and Steam House draw near-unanimous praise, and Hangzhou House, the Michelin-starred restaurant on property but run separately from Aman, has fans calling it among the best hotel meals in China.

The rooms are the catch, and it isn't minor: the "cottages" get called too dark by admirers and critics alike, from a 2024 review through one from this June, so this isn't one unlucky villa. Hangzhou House also splits opinion hard: one couple paid around SGD 350 for two and found the mushroom dish bland and the service checked-out, while others rank the same meal among the best in China. Service overall skews warm, but there's a real minority describing poor English and a dismissive front desk, including one traveller turned away rudely when asking how to reach a nearby restaurant with a frail parent in tow. Worth flagging too: the public footpath lets non-guests wander the grounds, which cuts against the exclusivity a rate like this implies, and the traffic-controlled West Lake area makes arrival logistics genuinely complicated.

Book it for the temple access and the atmosphere, not for a flawless five-star room. On the setting, the food, and the sense of stepping into old Hangzhou, nothing else nearby comes close.

Sixteen rooms, something like 75 staff, and roughly $5,000 a night all-in on the Troll Peninsula. That ratio is what the rate buys. Guests who've also done Aman keep reaching for that comparison, then walking it back, because the warmth here reads as family rather than silent anticipation: the same guide who takes you horseback riding turns up on the whale-watching boat and the e-bike route. The geothermal pool with its swim-up bar, set against the valley peaks, is the image everyone brings home, and the sauna-steam-cold plunge sequence gets praised by people who stayed years apart.

The catch is dinner. Breakfast and dinner happen at a communal table for 32, and it splits people cleanly: plenty come around to loving the conversation with strangers, but couples wanting privacy get charged extra (guests cite $180 a night) to opt out, which stings at this price. The food itself gets called fine rather than memorable even by guests who loved everything else. One returning guest complained about the wine upselling on an earlier trip, then got the same pitch on a full buyout visit with premium wines already ordered, which is a strange way to treat someone who's already paying for the good stuff. Heli-skiing is the marquee winter draw and it's genuinely weather-dependent: Iceland's wind can ground activities outright, so book it for the experience and the setting, not for guaranteed powder days.

Worth it if you want adventure-lodge intensity with real five-star execution and don't mind sharing a table most nights. Ask about the private dinner option upfront if that matters to you. Book it for the guides, the pool, and a version of Iceland almost nobody else sees.