Amanfayun vs Amandari

What you're paying for at Amanfayun isn't the room. It's a reconstructed Longjing tea village strung along a stream beside Lingyin Temple, with monk-led chants at Yongfu at dawn and a footpath gate that lets you beat the tour buses. That's the whole case for the property. Travellers separated by years describe the same thing: the stream-lined pool against centuries-old stone, the tea gardens, the sense of arriving somewhere old rather than merely nice. One guest's grandparents got personal attention getting around the grounds; another's toddler had every staff member charmed within a day. The food backs it up too: the vegetarian restaurant and Steam House draw near-unanimous praise, and Hangzhou House, the Michelin-starred restaurant on property but run separately from Aman, has fans calling it among the best hotel meals in China.

The rooms are the catch, and it isn't minor: the "cottages" get called too dark by admirers and critics alike, from a 2024 review through one from this June, so this isn't one unlucky villa. Hangzhou House also splits opinion hard: one couple paid around SGD 350 for two and found the mushroom dish bland and the service checked-out, while others rank the same meal among the best in China. Service overall skews warm, but there's a real minority describing poor English and a dismissive front desk, including one traveller turned away rudely when asking how to reach a nearby restaurant with a frail parent in tow. Worth flagging too: the public footpath lets non-guests wander the grounds, which cuts against the exclusivity a rate like this implies, and the traffic-controlled West Lake area makes arrival logistics genuinely complicated.

Book it for the temple access and the atmosphere, not for a flawless five-star room. On the setting, the food, and the sense of stepping into old Hangzhou, nothing else nearby comes close.

Amandari opened in 1989 as the second Aman ever built, and it still runs on that idea: a cluster of thatched-roof villas built to look like a Balinese village, stacked into a ravine above the Ayung River outside Ubud. What you're paying for isn't the newest pool or the biggest spa menu. It's a staff who learn your breakfast order by day one and then just handle things: one guest said Whatsapping the front desk for a barber or a TV fix got an instant reply, no waiting on hold, no repeating yourself. Housekeeping resets your villa while you're at the pool for an hour, down to a fresh towel and a bookmark on whatever you left open.

The building is honest about its age, and that cuts both ways. Several recent guests loved the traditional bones and called it timeless rather than dated. One 2024 review reported a dead cockroach and a toilet that splashes back on flush, alongside praise for the food and the infinity pool view: both things can be true in a 36-year-old property. The single restaurant covers breakfast, lunch and dinner, and a few longer-stay guests got tired of one menu, though the kitchen's Sop Buntut and wagyu get called out by name. Villa plunge pools aren't heated either, so they're a warm-day dip, not a night swim. The service is the reason to book, and it's specific: a five-year-old got a complimentary tennis partner and an afternoon dance class she refused to miss, and a private rice-field guide built the walk around her nap schedule.

This suits people who want an intimate, walkable property where you can reach breakfast or the spa in two minutes, not a resort you need a buggy to cross. If you want a bigger room, a river view, and more on-site variety, Mandapa next door gets recommended for exactly that, though its service consistently rates behind Amandari's. Book Amandari for the staff who anticipate what you need before you ask, and the sense that Ubud in 1989 is still standing.